1/23/2024 Topic: Cross-Hatch Fill Start/Stop TheFinishingTouch	I hope I'm doing something wrong. When I have a design I wish to put on fleece or a beanie, etc., I like to create a knockdown stitch to hold the pile/fluff down. I create a BOUNDARY around the design as an object (not a "shape"), use a cross-hatch or a run stitch or even artwork as the border and then do a cross-hatch fill to create the knockdown stitching. My problem is... I cannot get the fill to sew from center out. Even if I try to move the start & stop beads, all they do is orbit the edge of the boundary. I'm unable to move them into the center of the knockdown field. How do I get the knockdown to sew center out instead of spiraling into the center from the outer edge? The same "problem" exists when I use a programmed fill (ie. 204) at a density of 10 spi. I am unable to have the start bead and stop bead anywhere inside the knockdown area. They will only sit on the outer edge of the segment. Is there a way to get the start/stop off of the edge? edited by TheFinishingTouch on 1/23/2024 edited by TheFinishingTouch on 1/24/2024
1/28/2024 Topic: DG 16 Maestro 16.5.2.7640 TheFinishingTouch	Is it possible to have a START point inside of a "knock-down" segment when using a cross-hatch fill or another fill, such as 204? Currently when creating a boundary and then "filling" it for knock-down purposes, the start is on the edge, causing the fill pattern to "spiral down" into the center. Can that be reversed so as to start in the center and "spriral out"?
2/16/2024 Topic: Script Errors for PulseCloud on New Computer TheFinishingTouch	We have DG16 and the latest download has not corrected the scripts issue. PulseCloud continues to try to open in Internet Explorer rather than Edge or Chrome. I have found that if I right click on the link for a PulseCloud article and select "open in a new window" I avoid the scripts error messages. Certainly not a "fix", but a work-around.
4/28/2024 Topic: Hot keys TheFinishingTouch	To move a selected segment, use "ALT+Arrow Keys".
18 days ago Topic: How to make a 3D puff effect with an edge? TheFinishingTouch	I can only guess at how the contoured center ridge line on the letters was achieved. By MY eye, it seems to have been sewn on what appears to be "Naugahyde" or something similar (a man-made leather-like upholstery material). If that is correct, it's possible that it is for a "display" of some sort and not meant to be worn. That could allow for the contoured center ridge to be made from something not compressible (a line of hot glue, heavy monofilament line, etc.) that was laid down on top of the foam. Another possibility is the foam was carved or molded before being sewn over. The mind spins.
17 days ago Topic: How to make a 3D puff effect with an edge? TheFinishingTouch	Please let us all know what you learn, what works, what doesn't.
13 days ago Topic: How to make a 3D puff effect with an edge? TheFinishingTouch	Well that answers the question. A narrow italic (or something offset/angled like that) puff letter overlaid by a wide, flat satin non-puff letter.
2 days ago Topic: Probelms with underlay TheFinishingTouch	Embroidery on caps is always problematic. Caps are inherently unstable, no matter what kind of hat hoop you use. All caps should sew from the bottom up and center out. A large item, like your "gear" encompasses the entire front. The "gear" may instead need to be sewn without an underlay, as the cap's front will deform and shift around while sewing if it is not VERY SECURELY hooped. You are using a "single-band" hat clamp which is probably the least effective hat clamp made. You will require a much more effective hat hooping for the design you are sewing.
2 days ago Topic: Looking for a better font - tips to make cleaner TheFinishingTouch	You might try 60wt thread and a 65/9 needle, or 75wt thread and a 60/8 needle. Going to a thinner thread you may need to increase the density, you may also need to adjust pull comp. Also try experimenting with density. I don't know if you use the .4 or the 63.5 or?? Just lessening/reducing the density a little might help if you're using 40wt thread.

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